A land of fishermen lapped by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, the Algarve is a paradise for everyone who enjoys fish and sea food. Because every day, as morning breaks, the fishing boats return to harbour laden with the night's catch. And also because the people of the Algarve have centuries of experience in cooking the fruits harvested front the sea.

The simplest method - grilling the fish, be it sardine, sea bream or mullet, over the slow heat of glowing charcoals - is also one of the most delicious. For more complex flavour combinations nothing beats the old fishermen's recipes, which range from wholesome soups made with razor clam, prawn and fish of all kinds to conger, clam and octopus

cream and pieces of bacon or sausage. The secret is in the cataplana, a broad copper vessel with a hinged lid that is Moorish in origin. The lid is closed while the ingredients simmer together and the flavours develop. And when it is opened - what a treat! The Algarve has some tempting cakes and pastries too. Made with the almonds, figs and oranges that are grown throughout the area and plenty of eggs and sugar, they bear such exotic names as "Dom Rodrigos", "morgados" and "morgadinhos°. Stuffed figs, fig cake and figs with almonds and chocolate are among the many traditional desserts.

The grapes of the Algarve get plenty of sunshine and yield heady wines with lots of fruit that go well with the region's cuisine. And to round off a meal, the arbutus brandy known as "medronho" and other traditional liqueurs made with fruit and honey are well worth a try.

Top of the list of gastronomic delights associated with Portimão is tasty, grilled sardine, served on a slice of home-made bread, a simple but delicious combination to be had in any of the restaurants along the quayside. But there is more than grilled sardine to Portimão's culinary repertoire. Local entrees include chard and purslane soups, white heart soup with sweet potato, bread and tomato soup a favourite of the local fishermen and "arjamolho" a refreshing soup that is ideal on hot days.

There is a plentiful choice of fish and seafood too. Cataplana which takes its name from the traditional hinged copper vessels in which it ìs cooked, fish stew, Portimão-style clams and bean and whelk stew made with large whelks, red beans and green peppers and seasoned will, parsley and bay leaf. The maritime side of the menu also includes razor clam risotto, "carapau" (a fish